After a fantastic fact finding trip to eSwatini (formerly Swaziland) I can confidently report there’s a hell of a lot to like about this small country! 

 

Dramatic mountain ranges, lush, fertile valleys and a thriving indigenous culture make eSwatini a fantastic choice for anyone looking for something a little different. Compact in size and hemmed in on three sides by South Africa and Mozambique on the fourth, they, along with Lesotho are sometimes mistaken as provinces of South Africa rather than unique independent nations. What struck me was the celebration and accessibility of Swazi culture, with numerous cultural and community experiences and local markets to visit in safe walkable cities or serene natural settings. The museums and cultural experiences you may imagine are there for foreign tourism are regularly frequented by local school groups and residents. It’s hard to find a parallel to this in neighbouring South Africa. The people have a genuine warmth and it’s small size make travelling around a breeze. 

Mbabane is the country’s clean and compact capital city, with great views from the surrounding hills, an interesting market, and some historical landmarks worthy of attention. It is, however, in the Ezulwini Valley east of the city which holds many of the countries gems, as well as the best accommodation. 

The shopping experience is a delight. The markets and community shopping projects seem to have bypassed the trap of importing mass produced souvenirs from distant factories in other countries. Indeed, in many of our stops we watched local craftsman and villagers crafting their wares by hand. Manzini market is good for traditional fabrics, handwoven baskets and some other more exotic items. Two of the standouts for me were ‘Swazi candles’, with its demonstration area to show you how they mold the multicoloured wax into a variety of shapes, usually one of eSwatini’s resident animals such as a rhino or elephant. The other was the Ngwenya glass factory, a community success story which uses only recycled glass and offers skilled employment to the people of the nearby villages. From the viewing deck you can watch them heat broken wine glasses and drinks bottles into a fiery orange molten liquid before shaping and blowing it into whatever is needed for the shop next door or the restaurants and hotels in Mbabane. Both Swazi candles and Ngwenya glass sit within small cooperatives selling all manner of unique curios. 

 

The Swaziland National Museum makes for an interesting short stop, half dedicated to human history (bushman, Bantu, Swazi people etc.) While the other half is dedicated to natural history and human evolution. 

 

King Sobusha II Memorial Park is another short stop with a memorial to the late king and a small museum detailing his life, and the work towards the countries independence. 

 

Mantenga Cultural Village shows us the traditional way of life with the benefit of a stunning natural backdrop. The village consists of a collection of domed huts using traditional reed, pole and cow dung construction and areas partitioned for cooking and keeping livestock, offering a fascinating glimpse into the past. The village wasn’t built just for show either, a family lived here until just a few years ago. You can also learn the history of Execution Rock, the unmissable feature on the nearby mountain top where the condemned were marched up for their sentence to be carried out. There is also a beautiful waterfall which you can hike or drive too and back in the village there are excellent twice daily performances of traditional Swazi music and dance. There were busloads of local school kids watching with us during our visit. Their enthusiastic cheering and applause made the experience all the more memorable. 

eSwatini’s Game Reserves don’t hold the same variety of wildlife as many of their South Africa counterparts (but they’re working on introducing more species all the time). Instead they have chosen to diversify with some interesting game viewing and adventure experiences. Tracking White Rhino’s on foot in Mkhaya reserve, horseback riding, mountain biking and hiking among wildebeest, zebra and crocodiles in Mlilwane and single or multiday treks plus an amazing zip-line network in mountainous Malolotja are just some of the fabulous options you can include to see the natural side to this beautiful country. 

As with all Tailormade destinations, the combinations are practically endless. Here is an example of a route designed to showcase the best eSwatini has to offer combined with a Kruger safari. Thrilling adventure activities, unique cultural enrichment and up close wildlife encounters, and all to the backdrop of striking mountain ranges, deep canyons and wildlife rich Bushveld: 

 

 

Spend three nights exploring the rich cultural and natural offerings of the Ezulwini Valley. On your first full day visit the Swaziland National Museum, King Sobhusa II Park, shop at Swazi Candles cooperative and engage at the Mantenga Cultural Village. The following day can be spent walking and horseback riding in Mlilwane game reserve followed by a community visit to see how the traditional Swazi way of life interacts with the modern world. 

 

Where to stay – Sumerfields Botanical Gardens Resort 

 

 

Next drive into Mkhaya game reserve, with a short stop at Manzini market. Leave your car for the night and transfer into the reserve in their open sided game vehicle. 

 

After tracking Rhino’s on foot and hopefully passing by some giraffe, hippos and more en route to the lodge at the heart of the reserve you’ll be greeted by a simple set up in a beautiful location. Although not for everyone, I loved the open sides to the spacious stone rondavels, the lack of separation (other than a mozzie net) with the environment makes for a truly memorable stay. There’s no large predators here so you’ll be completely safe. With crested Guinea fowl under foot and Nyala’s and warthogs often found wondering through the grounds, this is such a peaceful place to spend the night. 

 

Where to stay – Mkhaya Stone Camp 

 

In the morning after a hearty breakfast, game drive back out of the park and collect your car. 

 

 

Drive back up through the Ezulwini Valley, past Mbabane and stop at Ngwenya Glass for some handmade handicrafts. Afterwards visit the oldest mine in the world, the Ngwenya Iron Mine, thought to have been in operation for around 43,000 years. Alternatively head straight to Malolotja for a thrilling zip line extravaganza over deep ravines and surrounded by striking mountain scenery. 

Continue to your beautiful remote eco lodge where you will spend the next two nights, arriving in time for dinner. The secluded mountain lodge is a perfect base for a day’s hiking through the mountains overlooking dramatic gorges and waterfalls. 

 

Where to stay - Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge 

 

Leave eSwatini and head north into Kruger National Park, staying at the famous Umkumbe Safari Lodge, known for its excellent location, friendly service and excellent guides. Spend 3 nights in search of big game, rare species and exotic birds in South Africa’s flagship game reserve. 

 

Where to stay - Umkumbe Safari Lodge 

 

 

After your final game drive leave Kruger and self drive along South Africa’s famous Panorama Route, visiting waterfalls and taking in some amazing viewpoints of Blyde River Canyon before settling in for your final evening. 

 

Where to stay - Hoyohoyo Angels View hotel 

 

In the morning drive to Johannesburg where the tour ends. 

 

Contact us today to tailor make your unique holiday to eSwatini and you can do this by filling out the enquiry form below, sending us an email at: enquiries@tailoredjourneys.co.uk or by calling us on 01442617777/02081039000